February marked Ralph & I's Happy Third and I could not even be more grateful. Preparing for our soon move halfway across the world in a few months, I was not really expecting anything from Ralph. But to my surprise, I woke up to a trail of hershey kisses leading to a single-stemmed rose. All I could do was smile and thank God for another year in our marriage. 

Still and all, I could not help but think about the future and the many, many years we are about to face. Between Ralph & I, I obviously am the Hopeless Romantic. I love the "just because" flowers, cards, letters, chocolates, serenades, trinkets, the poetry, the sweet nothings and all  the outward manifestation of romantic and sacrificial love. Which is why all these thoughts came crossing my mind, will our romance still be alive after X number of years? Or are we just going to fall into the same category as those married couples saying, "we're just comfortable with each other, it feels like we're just roommates now." Will we go through the ups and downs of what they call the Seven Year Itch? Personally, I really hate the idea of the Seven Year Itch, of this inclination to cheat after seven years of marriage, especially if couples use it as an excuse for betraying the same person they promised forever with. Anyhow, I really do not dread hitting the seven year mark, but what scares me is to reach that point when Ralph & I become just roommates, when the romantic fires fizzle out, when the roses, candies, hugs and kisses stop coming and when everything else becomes a habit.

As many couples would agree, marriage is not all rainbows and cotton candy. And I do not expect it to be. Although I love all the romanticism, I do not expect candlelit dinners every night or tangible gifts at that. For this Happy Third, I simply hope our marriage to not become like a cozy blanket on a cold, winter day, but to grow like a steady fire that warms up the whole room. I hope those two-minute calls and short but sweet emails of "I Love You's" on a busy day and those errands done to help each other never fail to cease. And when the seventh year finally arrives, I hope our feet are itching to run, our lips itching to converge, our hands waiting to lock and our bodies itching to fall towards one another. And if at one point we find ourselves still running empty on romance, I hope, hope, hope and pray to God that Ralph & I will never, even for one second, stop trying.

I slept but my heart was awake.
Listen! My beloved is knocking:
 "Open to me, my sister, my darling, my dove, my flawless one. 
My head is drenched with dew, my hair with the dampness of the night."
I have taken off my robe - must I put it on again?
I have washed my feet - must I soil them again?
My beloved thrust his hand through the latch opening;
my heart began to pound for him.
I arose to open for my beloved, 
but my beloved had left; he was gone.
My heart sank at his departure
I looked for him but did not find him.
I called him but he did not answer.
The watchmen found me as they made their rounds in the city.
They beat me, they bruised me; they took away my cloak, those watchmen of the walls!
Daughters of Jerusalem, I charge you - if you find my beloved, what will you tell him?
Tell him I am faint with love.

-Song of Solomon 5:2-8

Sixth Stop - Germany (Munich & Berlin)
Via Trains from Pordenone to VE Mestre, VE Mestre to Milano CentraleMilano Centrale to Zurich, Zurich to Schaffhausen, Schaffhausen to UlmUlm to Munich, Munich to BerlinTotal Travel Hrs. 18hrs (including waiting time)

Where do I begin narrating this one? Try, at 3:30AM making our way down to Venice Airport to drop off the in-laws. After several days of sparred decision-making, Ralph's family hurtfully gave up their last couple of days in Europe to pay last respect to beloved Mama Febe. And surprise! surprise! We got at the airport welcomed by a commotion - Remember Spain? Spain, who conveniently scheduled their work strike that one fine day. Why did we ever do this again? Ah, for the sake of it. I heart sarcasm.

Thankfully, their flights were rerouted instead of completely cancelled out. Ralph and I left and drove off...off into the wild blue yonder...a.k.a Germany. Gauging at 80mph, we zoomed our way on the autostrada to catch one of the many trains we were scheduled to embark on. With few minutes to spare, we made our way north, hitting Venice, Milan, Zurich, Schaffhausen, Ulm then 13 hours and railroad maintenance delays later, Munchen.

MUNICH
Despite being escorted by the common cold, orange juice plus some green menthol tissues to boost, visiting Munich was a lot of fun. Being the most efficient country we have visited so far, Germany was the easiest to navigate. Once settled in a well-kept, fancy apartment originally for five, we soaked in its convenience before finally dozing off at midnight. Next morning, we hit Munich with an early visit to the Deutsches Museum, one of largest and most comprehensive Science & Technology museum in the world. From its rising barometer tower, vast science and technology exhibitions (not to mention interactive), lecture halls, and an open research laboratory, this seven floor museum makes learning addictive and fun! Even made me want to fly to the Philippines and bring my Chemist sister, whose latest research gig is nanotechnology, back. Needless to say, the Bio & Nanotechnology exhibition hall is one of the most interesting area of the museum, showcasing a hollowed car, face detector, nano & biotechnology uses and benefits in a futuristic-themed space with some real life MIB's. Calling Occupants of Interplanetary Crafts!!! Karen Carpenter, hit it!

Leaving the museum by noon, we stopped by Marienplatz for lunch, then straight to the BMW Main Headquarters, its building structure already a must-see. Thankfully, God finally heard my pleas and favored us with two slots for the BMW factory tour at the last minute. Note: Make reservations ahead of time. Trailing along our tour guide, we got to see some behind the scenes action on the making of a BMW! From its assembly line, paint job, car seat installation and employees, test driving new BMW's - everything seem to set the stage for a hollywood flick where we embody a bunch of powerful, goggle-wearing personae, secretly watching the unfolding of a scientific project especially made for the earth's destruction. Bwa-Bwa-Bwa-hahahahaha!

Last but not the least, we took part in Germany's most celebrated fair, Oktoberfest! Packed with party-goers dressed in traditional German costumes, Thereisenweisse was a party pen. Hoping to find extra seats at one of the famous German restaurants, Hofbrauhaus, we ended up eating at one of the food stands instead. The thousands of boisterous people already seated thumping and singing wildly with the live band kinda made empty seats hard to come by. Overall though, I did not enjoy it as much as I wanted. Besides my ailing body begging for rest, I am not too big on two things Oktoberfest is known for - beer and carnival rides.

BERLIN
Arriving in Berlin a little after lunch, nothing extraordinary seemed to pop-out until we stepped out of the train station and explored the city. Unlike any other congested cities, Berlin, though abundant in high-rise buildings is so far-stretched, it felt we were the only tourists wandering the streets. Some train stations were even completely isolated. Considering it as Hitler's former Nazi headquarters, the city's quietness still seem to echo the known and unknown things that happened behind its walls. There is this eerie, yet liberating feeling. That said, Berlin is so rich in history. Visiting the German Historical Museum, we came up close with Martin Luther and his detractors. One of which is a caricature of him with seven heads as a doctor, Turk, monk, church visitor, wild man with a club, a preacher and a fanatic, a parody of the seven-headed beast in the book of Revelation. According to the German Historical Museum, the picture represent Luther's contradictory teachings. Then of course, Hitler and the Nazi regime. Some of its highlights include Nazi uniforms, Hitler propaganda in print and videos, and a model of Hitler's dream house. 

Another historical-rich place we went to was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Interestingly so, this memorial had an array of seeming sepulchers in different heights and levels, where underneath lies a Holocaust gallery. Once inside, each memorial room (two, I find most compelling) showed videos, letters, pictures and stories of murdered Jews and their families. The rooms I personally liked included encased, handwritten letters from the Holocaust era laid on the floor. The other, a four-wall projector room, showing names among the 6 million murdered Jews, whose bodies are still missing. 

With that, we also visited Bradenburger Tor, Bebelplatz, East Side Gallery and Checkpoint Charlie, the famous checkpoint between East and West Germany, where people tried different ideas for escape. The night before we left, Ralph sans me, included a stop to the Jewish museum. Over fatigued by our consecutive journey, I opted to enjoy our Marriott hotel, courtesy by mom-in-law, to regain some vigor before facing another 18-hour trip in conclusion of our one heck of a backpacking trip. Now, whereto next?

ROMA
Nicknamed the Eternal City, Rome...drives me at a loss for words. "Grande!" as how our landlords described it. Rich in historical and cultural treasures, Rome never ceases to amaze me. This time, we visited the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Piazza Venezia, Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Via Condotti and Piazza Navona. And of course, gelato from the world-famous San Crispino and tartufo from Tre Scalini!!! Spell Y-U-M! Will definitely come back one last time!

VATICAN CITY
Though small in population and size, Vatican City is a goldmine of major artworks and treasures including Michaelangelo's Pieta and Sistine Chapel ceiling, and Raphael's the Transfiguration. Home of Catholicism, it is also home to the widest collection of the Bible translated in different languages, and of course the most magnificent cathedral in the whole wide universe, St. Peter's Basilica. Some fun facts, we've learned about the Vatican:

1. Population: Less than a thousand.
2. Latin, being one of the languages used in the city-state, is available as a language option in ATM machines.
3. Free Admission on World Tourism Day and every last Sunday of the month. (Be prepared to line-up and wait!)
4. It takes about 500 steps to reach St Peter's Basilica cupola, 300+ with extra cost.
5. St. Peter's Basilica got its name from St. Peter, who was crucified and buried at the cathedral's exact location.
6. Since some lunatic tried destroying the Pieta, Michaelangelo's masterpiece now stands behind a bullet-proof acrylic panel.
7. The Last Judgement Day painting at the Sistine Chapel: Michaelangelo, in his deliberate mockery of a Vatican official named Biagio, drew a resemblance of him in the character of Minos, the Greek myth god of Hades. He is seen with devilish ears, a serpent encircling him and biting his male organs. Look for Minos a.k.a. Biagio at the bottom right of the intricate mural.

FLORENCE
Though not as Grand as Rome, or as lavish as Venice or Vatican, Florence exudes with Renaissance and Tuscan charm. It is the home of the Statue of David, Uffizi Gallery, Signoria Square, River Arno and awesome Italian sub sandwiches!  Gorgonzola cheese please! 

Unfortunately, it is also the culmination of Ralph and I's squabbles. Getting irritated with a lack of some decent breakfast, being separated from the pack and having been rained-on, the drama begins. Ralph, fed-up with my constant complaining and I, sick to death of our hapless encounters clashed like greased, shirtless Titans. With claws emerging from the you-thought-she-couldn't-hurt-a-fly Jezell, I refused to enter the Uffizi Gallery and when I finally decided to, let out a snarky remark towards Ralph, "I'm agreeing to go in for mom's sake and not yours!" Lesson learned: Don't mess with me. Hehehe.

Seriously, looking back on that day, made me realize how I so so appreciate Ralph, and how blessed I am to be with him through the best and the worst of times. We don't pretend to be okay when we're not or pretend to be the perfect couple when everything else goes awry. But most importantly, I learned to treat him more with respect, support his decisions and hold my tongue. In essence, Ralph and I are learning to truly love and forgive unconditionally. Who said it will be easy, painless and scarless? 

On a side note, I thank God for giving the right person to me. I thank God for forgiveness and restoration. I thank God that He came for sinners like me, "For I have not come to call the righteous but the sinners" (Matthew 9:12). I thank God for equipping Ralph to be the husband I most need, and for continuously shaping me to be the wife, Ralph deserves. And with that...Ralph, I am truly sorry for those times I did not show respect, supported your decisions and held my tongue. Thank you so much for being patient with me and bearing the brimful emotions I came with. I won't and can't promise instant change, but this I will do...strive harder to become a better wife and fight harder for understanding. I am ever so proud of you. I love you with every thread forming my existence, with every ounce of blood coursing through my veins and with every single breath my body intakes and exhales. I love you, if not the same, even more.

And Oh yes, the Florence pictures...

Ralph, knowing how proud of a Pinay I can still be sometimes teasingly asked, "So Jizzle...what do you think of being in the country who conquered the Philippines for 300 years?" Switching my game face on with an arched left brow replied, "Funny. And personally, I still hold it against them." Yeah right...España, we've arrived!!!

Relief took over as soon as the 10hour train ride from Paris to Barcelona became a thing of the past. Though a cloud still hung above us because of the sad news in the City of Love, things looked a bit more hopeful. Compared to the web-tangled metro's of two of Europe's biggest cities, navigating Barcelona's metro was a breeze. Much to my utter jubilation, we said good riddance to hostels at least for now, and welcomed the room, Ralph's relatives had for us. 

Refreshed, renewed and repleted, we took Barcelona on foot to experience the country that landed on Philippine soil with the purpose of 3G's - God, Gold and Glory. And if there is ever an award for Best Street and Best Dressed Street Characters, Barcelona takes it all! Las Ramblas, the city's main boulevard bustles with slippery shell games, pet vendors, souvenir kiosks, restaurants, flower shops, human statues, local artists and street performers. It's an all-day party where everyone comes to play! Two of the highlights visiting this fun street was seeing the capoeira performed by a group of local break dancers, and the ingenuity of a hanging Blue Piccolo human statue. Euro in hat! 

Towards the end of the street, we reached the gigantic Christopher Columbus statue. And for 4EU per person, we went up Columbus' tower and saw magnificent Barcelona from top!

After a trip down Ramblas, we ventured on a quest to see some of Barcelona's unique architectures, beginning with Sagrada Familia. Sagrada Familia, the unfinished work of Gaudi, looks straight out from Alice in Wonderland. It's a cathedral built and still being built with a touch of fantasy and whimsy despite the cranes and construction around it. The Cathedral's completion is not expected until after the next two decades with more towers and unusual structures looming in the horizon. Other distinct buildings we visited included the Block of Discord, Palau Guell, Torre Agbar and the Palau dela Musica Catalana. 

Besides the amazing Spanish and Filipino dishes prepared for us by Ralph's relatives, we also took home eyes satiated with the Museu Picasso. The first Picasso painting I ever saw was then to me an ugly, scary looking old man all in shades of blue hanging at the office of my previous job. Little did I know that that piece actually belonged to his sentimental and somber Blue Period paintings. Like a child discovering a treasure box, visiting the museum helped us understand art a little better especially with the museum's presentation of Picasso's recreation of "Las Meninas." Combined with technology, the museum featured how Picasso transformed the "Las Meninas" painting into his own style of cubism. It was quite genius!

So much left to do, yet so little time! And a couple of rain showers, shopping bags and days later, we left Spain in hopes of coming back to the city who has been known for its Philippine expeditions. No wonder, Ralph's relatives easily spoke the language. But, the Swiss Alps were already calling us by name. Hasta Luego España and ohhhh...

Switzerland, we're coming for ya!

Second stop - PARIS
Via Train from St. Pancras International to Paris Gare du Nord
Total Travel Time: 3 (including travel from hostel to train station)

Call time was at 0400AM, and despite the eventful happenings on top of other eventful happenings for the past days now including uhm...Ralph's trip to the Emergency Room for an eye infection, and our Epic Fail side trip to Surbiton to get our booking tickets from Paris to Spain...we were packed and ready to bid adieu to my still favorite city, London. 

Hopeful, that our trip will be slightly better...we caught the early morning train using our now Eurail passes just in the nick of time. Clambering for sleep - 1-- 2-- 3-- 4-- 5 of us were completely knocked out, but thankful that we at least arrived in Paris with some kind of renewed strength. The train came to a halt at around 0800AM just enough time to check-in, grab some breakfast, rebook our Paris-Spain reservations, roam around the city then get going again the next day...or, so we thought. Nothing could get worse right? Right!

Well Halo, Paris.

And welcome to the world where people barely speak English. Hoping for some Parisian croissants, Ralph & I decided to rebook our seat reservations from Paris-Spain first, to get it out of the way. As part of the planning process, Ralph booked these seat reservations with another "recommended" Eurail booking company, which if I knew beforehand would have totally voted against. Apparently, hubby had mentioned the exact date we were leaving and unsurprisingly, the company promised we'll get the paperwork in time. We didn't, see the $200 flying freely away from our pockets? At that moment, the "mannelly-ness" had oh so risen like red-headed Phoenix from X-men! Trying my best not to bawl over spilled milk, I was consoled by the fact that there was at least something we could do to remedy it. Piece of cake, eh? I mean, Ralph & I just also visited Paris this year. We should know, right? Uh, WRONG. 

Being amateur Eurail pass holders, the hunt for the right Eurail reservation window began. There were about 8-10 ticket kiosks and windows from different train companies (ask us how we know), and just about a thousand ticket machines. And no, it did not help not knowing French and when people do not or refuse to speak English! To make the long scouring short, it was about noon when we had finally seen the light outside the walls of Paris Gare du Nord. Thank God we made it out alive!

After losing half-a-day to our one-day visit, everything from there seemed to go smoothly. Thanks to Ralph's amazing navigation skills, we had found our hostel in a breeze, got some complimentary croissants, checked-in and dropped our bags. Determined to scratch Notre Dame and the Louvre off our Afternoon-Sights-List and squeeze a big brunch in, we were back up our feet trekking the cobbled streets of Paris. Thankfully, we found the Louvre food court, eliminating the saga of another scavenger hunt for a place to eat!

With the Louvre ticked off, Notre Dame here we go! But before finally bidding Mona Lisa's home with a buckled au revoir, a conveniently located, wi-fi equipped Apple store lured us in to catch up on emails and sorts...Then, some bad family news. Mama Febe, Ralph's grandmother, with her recently acquired pneumonia on top of her waning health...had passed away that same day at the age of 88. Dumbfounded, tears fell from Ralph and the in-laws. The future of this Euro Trip looked bleak...Decisions, however painful, needed to be made. So while the whole family tried to come out with a unified plan, there was nothing we could really do, but to wait for further news, ease the grief and find a bit of solace in the promised wonders of Paris. 

Ralph's family went up the Eiffel while we stayed down to spend some alone time. By 0800pm, we sat down for dinner at a local Creperie, a mile-walk from the Eiffel. And as the night grew deep, mom and dad in-law including myself, set out for the hostel to catch some zzz's, while Ralph and his sis made their way to Champs Elysees for Arc de Triomphe. And like a rotten cherry on top of our mediocre gelato's, our chosen hostel sucked way more than the last. I could've beaten myself to death for having read the reviews way too late in the game. Oh, so late...

Two and a half years into marriage, and Ralph and I are finally finding ourselves sandwiched in the process of adjusting. Our recent Euro Trip, in-laws in tow, proved how this adjustment process can be (sigh)...difficult. It was really a test of our teamwork, of how well we work together which...we unfortunately survived with a "D." Free-willed Ralph set his reigns loose while I, in hopes of dodging the inevitable marital squabbles involved in the planning process, acted like a "mannelly" - Ralph's invented term of endearment when I put on the crabby, bratty and melancholic mood(S). 

Soooo get this. 6 countries, 9 cities in 3 weeks by trains with night stays at hostels...serious backpacking was the plan. Ralph  booked, inquired and researched every country, every city and there I sat, ho-humming nonchalantly in the background, trying to hold my tongue over some of the decisions he'd made. I let it fly...thinking that it was for the best. But I was wrong and here's what I got from taking the easier route.

First stop - LONDON
Via Plane from Treviso Airport to Stansted Airport
Total Travel Hrs.: 6 (including travel from home to airport and waiting time)

Ah, yes indeed! Been in just twice but fell in love with the city! 10 Stars if I have to rate it...but, its also the first city we're staying at a dun...dun...dun...dun....HOSTEL (insert shriek). Okay, they're not that bad. Actually its very affordable for those just looking for a night to stay, but to assume it as a place to get some R&R, think again. Rooms usually accommodate 4-12 beds, typically as bunks, rented out to different people. So privacy, cleanliness and safety can be an issue especially to those uncomfortable with communal living. 

So what happened the first night? Everything went well until our door clicked at 3 in the morning. One of the girls we were rooming with, chose to get drunk and there...sadly, the shhh-ing and hushing of her friends only added to the already garish scene. So much for that coveted sleep and yes...Welcome to the world of hostels!

Still, judging a place for its hostels is just plain ridiculous and shallow, because London = awesome. Am I being totally biased? I think so. But could I just say this? I love London because its a fusion of theatre, arts, books, fashion, and diversity! And talk about reading...almost every single train ride we're in, its almost too rare to not find someone's nose buried in a newspaper or a book. And I can dress to kill without being judged or feeling overdressed. Love! Love! Love It! 

We visited some of the most popular landmarks in London i.e. Big Ben, Trafalgar Square, Westminster Abbey, Thames River, Tower Bridge, and this time, the Tower of London and the British Museum. The Tower of London, which houses the royal family's, high-priced Crown Jewels is definitely a "MUST." What I love about it is actually not the crown jewels themselves (although still worth looking at) but the re-enactment of medieval history throughout the Tower. Not only was it entertaining but it gives life to the "once was" of the Tower of London. We've watched the story of Margaret of Anjou, portrayed as the conniving, unsympathetic Queen fighting against the House of York. It was worth watching the 20-minute play, that when the Queen's maid ended with somewhere between this line, But, that story is reserved for next time, the crowd can't help but give a short, collective sigh. 

The British Museum, on the other hand, accommodates one of the largest collections I've seen so far. Besides the famous Rosetta Stone, which is why we came the first place, seeing the Americas, Polynesian and Asian treasures came as a surprise like the manga display and the Rapa Nui statue. Then again, it would not come as a surprise if I actually did the research and browsed through their website. Perhaps, ignorance is sometimes a bliss???

Oh, saw and screamed for Zac Efron during his St. Cloud London Premiere...if that counts for anything.