Did you really think our epic trip ended in Germany? Actually, so did I. Overwhelmed by all the craziness from all 6 countries, I had forgotten the extra travel-day left on our Eurail passes until Ralph put it to remembrance. So a month later...we hopped on another Notte Treno to validate the good, the bad and the ugly claims about the "dirty" south - Naples, Italy.
To get it out of the way, "Is southern Italy really dirty?" Yes, particularly Naples. Piles of garbage dominate the sidewalks without signs of it going anywhere. But trust me when I say this, I have actually seen worse. And aren't all, if not most cities actually dirty? Despite the many warnings I've read on travel books and testimonials, the pickpocketing or other tourist threats also never materialized. And if this is Mafia's territory, they sure know how to keep it under wraps at least at that time. Thank God. So for two days, we not only visited Naples but explored two other smaller cities, Pompeii and Sorrento.
POMPEII
As soon as we stepped out of the night train, Ralph, myself and our good friend, Jacquelyn went straight looking for the local, privatized train bound to Pompeii. About a 30-minute ride from Naples, we reached Pompeii early enough to beat any ticket lines and spend the other half of our day in Sorrento. And walked, we went.
In reality, Pompeii is simply a tourist spot of ruins. What's amazing about it though, is its history, and how for many years it has been unearthed and preserved under those smoldering Vesuvius lava.
To get it out of the way, "Is southern Italy really dirty?" Yes, particularly Naples. Piles of garbage dominate the sidewalks without signs of it going anywhere. But trust me when I say this, I have actually seen worse. And aren't all, if not most cities actually dirty? Despite the many warnings I've read on travel books and testimonials, the pickpocketing or other tourist threats also never materialized. And if this is Mafia's territory, they sure know how to keep it under wraps at least at that time. Thank God. So for two days, we not only visited Naples but explored two other smaller cities, Pompeii and Sorrento.
POMPEII
As soon as we stepped out of the night train, Ralph, myself and our good friend, Jacquelyn went straight looking for the local, privatized train bound to Pompeii. About a 30-minute ride from Naples, we reached Pompeii early enough to beat any ticket lines and spend the other half of our day in Sorrento. And walked, we went.
In reality, Pompeii is simply a tourist spot of ruins. What's amazing about it though, is its history, and how for many years it has been unearthed and preserved under those smoldering Vesuvius lava.
Pompeii: The Great Ruins
Walking around town made us nostalgic, captured our imagination and kept us in constant sentiment: "So this is how they lived," "So that is how they did things," "I wonder how people could walk in these uphill cobblestones for miles." Similar to any vibrant city of its time, Pompeii seemed to have it all: main streets, water system, temples, public administration houses, bakery, baths, amphitheaters, fresco-filled villas and the most visited tourist spot - Lupanare, Pompeii's brothel. Strangely, Pompeii today has been the home to many stray dogs now up for adoption. Over the years, stray dogs have been living in the ruins catching the attention of the Soprintendenza Archeologica, which established The (C)ave Canem Project (www.icanidipompei.com). Well, how's that for dog lover Italy? On the other hand, a huge land area still begs for excavation. As to what it can reveal about the past, time and archeologists have yet to conquer such feat. Stay tuned!
SORRENTO
A little less than a 30-minute train ride from Pompeii, Sorrento is a small town known for its lemon groves and an overlook of the Mediterranean sea to die for. Hoping to get a good southern dinner, we trudged for an hour down and along the marina but, visiting Sorrento in October proved unfortunate. The seeming summer town has been closed for business with but a handful of native folks preparing for winter. Oh well, at least we got to see these...
A little less than a 30-minute train ride from Pompeii, Sorrento is a small town known for its lemon groves and an overlook of the Mediterranean sea to die for. Hoping to get a good southern dinner, we trudged for an hour down and along the marina but, visiting Sorrento in October proved unfortunate. The seeming summer town has been closed for business with but a handful of native folks preparing for winter. Oh well, at least we got to see these...
NAPLES
And now for Naples or Napoli. Ready to retire from our first night, we stayed at one of the surprisingly, best hostels Ralph and I had been in - Hostel of the Sun. Not only were the rooms squeaky clean but customer service went far and beyond our expectations. We were given a map, helpful walking tips and of course, a recommendation for the best pizza in town. We couldn't ask for more.
The next day, we visited Castel Nuovo, Galleria Umberto shopping center, the National Archeological Museum and decided to eat at one of the two pizza recommendations, Sorbillo, the birthplace of Pizza in Italy; the other was Di Matteo. The Archeological Museum was our main sightseeing event, which hosts a vast collection of well-crafted sculptures reminiscent of Pompeii and Renaissance times.
Sorbillo, meanwhile, was and is a spectacle of its own. With about a half an hour to an hour wait, crowds patiently linger outside one of the most popular pizza places in Naples. With a variety of pizzas all named after Gino Sorbillo's sons and daughters, it has been the best and cheapest Italian pizza I've ever tasted, and many seem to agree. As I have read from other reviews, "Da Michele Pizzeria" from Eat.Pray.Love actually falls slightly below in comparison to Sorbillo and Di Matteo. Hmmm...is that why it was never recommended to us in the first place? I wonder...
And now for Naples or Napoli. Ready to retire from our first night, we stayed at one of the surprisingly, best hostels Ralph and I had been in - Hostel of the Sun. Not only were the rooms squeaky clean but customer service went far and beyond our expectations. We were given a map, helpful walking tips and of course, a recommendation for the best pizza in town. We couldn't ask for more.
The next day, we visited Castel Nuovo, Galleria Umberto shopping center, the National Archeological Museum and decided to eat at one of the two pizza recommendations, Sorbillo, the birthplace of Pizza in Italy; the other was Di Matteo. The Archeological Museum was our main sightseeing event, which hosts a vast collection of well-crafted sculptures reminiscent of Pompeii and Renaissance times.
Sorbillo, meanwhile, was and is a spectacle of its own. With about a half an hour to an hour wait, crowds patiently linger outside one of the most popular pizza places in Naples. With a variety of pizzas all named after Gino Sorbillo's sons and daughters, it has been the best and cheapest Italian pizza I've ever tasted, and many seem to agree. As I have read from other reviews, "Da Michele Pizzeria" from Eat.Pray.Love actually falls slightly below in comparison to Sorbillo and Di Matteo. Hmmm...is that why it was never recommended to us in the first place? I wonder...
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